Blog | Sartorial Diary

You wouldn’t buy a car without knowing its features, right? Then why don’t we do the same for shirts. Fortunately, it’s more than ancient voodoo and tacky marketing that distinguish the quality of a shirt. There are generally signs you can look for to determine whether the shirt was made with shortcuts, all to save the manufacturer money at the expense of quality. This process will only take you 30 seconds, and in return ensure you get what you’re paying for.

STEP ONE – The Stitching:

There’s no hiding bad tailoring here – the stitching needs to be firm and neat, especially around the point of the collar. It’s important you don’t compromise on this, or within 6 months of wearing the shirt, it’s likely the seams will split.

STEP TWO – The Components:

100% Cotton is the way to go! None of those poly-cotton or easy-iron blends. Remember, these blends are treated with chemicals which can cause skin irritation. So, don’t think you’re saving time buying an easy-iron shirt, because there is a HUGE compromise on quality. Try sticking to a two-ply cotton, it’s one of the best you can use due to its longer threads which ultimately result in the shirt being softer, stronger and less see-through.

STEP THREE – The Collar:

Avoid the curl! Be sure to check the density of the collar, as this is where many manufacturers cut costs. A good collar should be constructed with 3-5 layers to ensure it keeps its shape. If you’re unsure, ask the sales associate for some information about the quality. A collar that looks like its passed its ‘use by date’, isn’t even worth having in your life… you’re better than that.

Watch our URBBANA shirts being constructed here:

Signing off,

Kaan Tavli

SENIOR STYLIST & BRAND MANAGER AT URBBANA

Gone are the days where the wedding is all about the Bride; the groom and his team of groomsmen hold more responsibility… and its important they don’t disappoint. Here’s our four-point guide to ensure your fiancée doesn’t leave you at the Altar:

POINT #1 – THE SCENE:

If a guest has to ask who the groom is, there’s a problem. As the groom, you NEED to take it up a notch. Take in to consideration the dress code you’ve put on the invitation and the scenery of the venue to avoid disappointment.*

   *Appropriate for garden weddings with more vibrant colours and greenery.

POINT #2 – THE SUIT:

This is possibly one of the most overlooked factors when shopping for a wedding suit. Whether it’s a shawl lapel/double breasted suit for your black tie themed wedding, or a simple two-button notch lapel suit for an outdoors and scenic venue; Its important you choose an outfit that’s appropriate and compliments the scene.*

*The ‘Shawl’ Lapel is fit for the most formal of occasions/weddings and can’t be worn in a casual setting.

POINT #3 – THE COLOUR:

The colour of your suit ultimately depends on the scene of your wedding. It’s vital to complement the colours of the venue and your bride-to-be’s dress. Sticking to staple colours that are quite universal is key, and can make this process easier to go through.*

*This is an example of using a staple colour (Navy) and adding more vibrant colours that compliment each other.

POINT #4 – THE FIT:

Don’t look like you’re wearing a suit because you HAVE TO wear a suit, pay attention to the fit and get it customised to your needs. This ultimately means an extra cost in alterations, but also guarantee’s you won’t be ashamed of your wedding photos.

  *Example of how a suit should and shouldn’t fit

Signing off,

Kaan Tavli

SENIOR STYLIST & BRAND MANAGER AT URBBANA

“I’m too lazy”. Gentlemen, you’re not running a marathon; How much effort do you think it takes to dress well? I mean, you have to wear clothes anyway, right?… RIGHT? We’ve grown accustomed to assuming that dressing well takes so much time and effort, which couldn’t be further from the truth. Gentlemen, I’m here to tell you the days of pondering over your wardrobe like a teenage girl going on her first date are over. Stick to these two key pillars and let your wardrobe do the work for you.

PILLAR ONE: PROPORTION – The foundation.

This is one thing you must never compromise on when buying a garment. A man’s sartorial sense rests on his capability to wear the most basic garments to individual perfection, this is essentially a lesson in proportion. This is why when you see celebrities in a basic black suit, they still look amazing; and you think to yourself… “why don’t I look like that when I wear a black suit?”.

    *This is an example of head/shoulder proportion. If you happen to have a small head, it’s appropriate to wear a jacket with narrow shoulders. This will make your head appear larger than it actually is.

PILLAR TWO: COLOUR – It’s about the face!

One of the most important but misunderstood functions of male attire is to lead the viewer’s eyes toward your face. Remember, the garments should compliment you… not the other way around. Colour is the leading influencer of first impressions compared to any other aspect of attire. People can establish an emotional link between themselves and the colour you’re wearing. It’s important to establish a relationship between your complexion and the outfit’s level of contrast, and understand what colours compliment your complexion. Once this is established, you can then highlight your face by repeating one of more natural pigments in the colours of your garments.

    *This Is an example of our designer here at URBBANA, Sam Abi. He opts for a darker tie due to his darker facial features (hair and eyes), which help bring the viewers eye back to his face.

Implementing these methods will ultimately save you effort and time on a daily basis. If you have any questions for our team of stylists or to book a styling session, feel free to email edwardst@urbbana.com.au

Signing off,

Kaan Tavli

SENIOR STYLIST & BRAND MANAGER AT URBBANA

We’re men! and men don’t get scared… right? I mean, unless you ask us to wear pink or something; only then will we blush like twelve-year-old girls and mumble “I don’t wear pink”. There’s a big misconception of certain colours and the perception it gives to people, and rightfully so. There’s definitely a right and wrong way to do this, so follow these 3 steps to make sure you don’t embarrass yourself:

STEP 1: THE CANVAS

Think of an Artist about to paint their most magnificent piece… What colour is their canvas? It’s a block colour. Why is it a block colour? because the Art piece is the showcase, not the canvas; the same thing applies in Fashion. It’s important to realise that if you’re going to showcase a beautiful garment that really stands out, you need to let it be the statement piece in your outfit. Sticking to ‘staple colours’* as your canvas is the difference-maker.

                                              *Navy, White, Beige, Grey, Olive, Burgundy (not limited to)

STEP 2: CHECK YOUR CHECKS

The last thing you want is to look like an optical illusion right? Avoid doing so by complimenting whatever design* you wear with a block colour garment. This is a common mistake the modern gentleman makes day-to-day; Unfortunately because he’s been misinformed. Remember, let the design be the statement piece!

                                          *Checks, Stripes, Polka-dots, Paisley (not limited to)

STEP 3: STYLE IS A SIGNATURE THAT CAN’T BE FORGED

This is the last and most important step of the process. Always work within your comfort zone, otherwise the garments will simply be props in your wardrobe and accumulate dust over time. A great pioneer of men’s fashion once said “the most expensive clothes you’ll ever buy are the ones you’ll never wear.” Every style-decision you make should be done with complete confidence and conviction. Remember, your style can’t be forged… so embrace it!

                                                 John Tomkins (left) & URBBANA Designer Sam Abi (right)

Signing off,

Kaan Tavli

SENIOR STYLIST & BRAND MANAGER AT URBBANA

“To wipe your nose on your sleeve was boorish”  – Although the ‘Pocket Square’ has lost its original purpose and functionality in modern society, the tradition of its finesse and class remains. Despite still being a common piece in a gentleman’s wardrobe, there is a disconnect between liking them and knowing the right way to wear them.

Here’s four different ways to wear your ‘Handkerchief/Pocket Square’, and the appropriate occasions to show them off.

THE CAREFREE

Appropriate for any open-collar attire (casual outings). Easy to execute and is perfect for the carefree gentleman.

THE CORPORATE

Appropriate for a formal white-collar workplace, works terrifically in corporate settings.

THE FLOWER

Ideal for an evening out on the town or festive occasions.

THE LADDER

Appropriate for any settings other than corporate. Great for heavily designed ‘Pocket Squares’.

Feel free to visit us in store or email edwardst@urbbana.com.au for any questions

Signing off,

Kaan TavlI

SENIOR STYLIST & BRAND MANAGER AT URBBANA

The Patina collection at URBBANA is a true reflection of craftsmanship at its finest. The technique involves applying many layers of colour to the leather to build up the design, until finally the artisan’s desired look is achieved. The process can unbelievably begin with applying up to seven or eight dyes for a greater depth of colour that can only be found in hand coloured shoes. Sometimes multiple colours are used to achieve a patina with many different hues, in which multiple cloths and brushes are needed, because each dye requires its own cloth and brush, so as to avoid destroying the desired effect.

Kaan Tavli

SENIOR STYLIST & BRAND MANAGER AT URBBANA